Wall Street By Day :: Hardcore Crafter By Night

Color Blocked Dress

2009-09-07T10:58:00.000-07:00

(I must be losing my wit...my post titles have been quit lame of late. I'll try to do better next time!!!)

BURDA 05-117B-2009

Here is another dress I've been holding out on (sorry!!!). It is from the adorable Dresses Dresses Dresses Issue from this past May. After having a VERY difficult time locating this issue in NYC just days after it hitting the shelves (I guess all the sewnista's have my old spots pegged!) I decided to subscribe to Burda. Quite frankly, I don't know what I was waiting for...

Anyhow, back to the dress. I got this fabric from Metro Textiles for a excellent price. It's 100% cotton and appears to be a run-off from a designer named "Quest". As soon as I walked in I ran to it..I LOVE color blocking and design was funky enough for my taste and subdued enough for me to wear it to the office which is a major WIN!! If you ever get your hands on a fabric like this let me offer these suggestions:

Ensure you have balance. Especially with a pattern like I used. The bodice alone has 8 pieces so it looks better if you maintain the the flow of the colorway consistent with each piece. Using this approach required me to think about pattern piece several times before cutting and I did not cut on the fold for that reason. I also bought an extra yard of fabric to give me more options when cutting. You don't want a garment with a large grouping of one color on one side and several colors broken up on the other side leaving it looking "unbalanced". If the latter happens it could potentially take away from the design of the pattern once complete.
Beware of your lady bits!!! Don't leave oddly placed lines, flowers, cut-outs etc. around your chest or lower regions. Here is a good example of why you wouldn't want that.

The only fitting adjustments I made were to grade the from a 36 to a 38 at the hip and to shorten the hem by 2.5 inches. I'm only 5'3" so it was still at a respectable office length :-)

Back

The design does get a bit lost in the fabric pattern. I just want to show how pretty it would be even with a solid color.

Lastly, Happy Labor Day!!!!

Magazine to Closet in 15 seconds flat

2009-08-05T18:12:00.000-07:00

BWOF 02-2008-103B

At least that's how it felt. I nearly forgot I made this until I looked at my backlog of unpublished projects. I swear I wore it 17 times before the warm weather hit. I had major issues fitting the collar...perhaps I didn't cut the pattern properly. Either way no one could tell and it didn't stop me from wearing the bejeezus out of it. But isn't that just the way things happen sometimes....you fudge your way through a garment and love it to bits....so much so that all your close friends have probably seen you in it. But then you painstakingly sew a garment and it ends up collecting dust in the closet. C'est la vie!

I shall call her...Semi Me!

2009-07-30T19:20:00.000-07:00

I've had the pleasure of bringing home my very own custom dressform!!! While I did own one of the adjustable plastic forms but they aren't ideal for draping. I wanted something sturdy and anatomically correct to draft my patterns from(posts on draping class to come). While I was at it, I went and got one custom to my size!! Andy of Andy's Model forms made it. After working for a major dressform company for 30 years he went off and started his own business and his work is absolutely phenomenal! Many NYC designers order his custom hand crafted work and with good reason....the man is good! I'm still in awe with how much the thing resembles my shape and is anatomically correct with only my providing a few measurements. He even offered me the opportunity to check the form before it was finished, a courtesy I appreciate since I'm a novice.

I also ordered the form with two special features: A derier and collapsible shoulders. The former was a must for me since..well..you know *blushes*. The latter was for the times you need to try something tight on the form without having to stretch it over the wide shoulder. They pop in and right out.

Here are the measurements I gave him:

Bust
Natural Waist
Hip (fullest part)
Front Waist Length (front base to natural waist)
Back Waist Length (front base to natural waist)
High Pin Shoulder (mid shoulder to bust apex)
Neck (around base of the neck)
Front Shoulder (front armpit to front armpit, dressforms don't have arms)
High Hip (Where your hip bone is. B/w waist and full of the hip)

I recommend Andy's work and you should definitely give him a shot if you are looking to get a professional dressform, be it custom or standard sizing. I shopped around and this level of quality at his price is a extreme bargain. Tell him his buddy Cindy sent you, he'll hook you up ;-)

Haute Couture Techniques: The Review

2009-07-26T13:35:00.000-07:00

For the record, I'm going ignore the large gap of time between posts...mainly because I've come to grips with the concept of "Tempus Fugit" a.k.a "Times Flies". And it seems the more flying it does the better it gets at it.... so while I try new methods of trying to catch-up, I hope you still pay me visit or follow me on Twitter :-)

During the Spring 2009 semester at F.I.T I took Haute Couture Techniques. I figured I could learn more hand-working techniques to add to my arsenal. The class was in a lecture format and we only worked on small fabric samples. As we learned the technique the instructor gave examples of how and why a couture atelier would incorporate them into garment construction.
While I did enjoy the class, especially the camaraderie with all of the students, I wouldn't say the class exposed any major show stopping secrets. If anything, it was the minor things that weren't even official parts of the course curriculum that made it worthwhile (like how to properly use a thimble, or how to thread a Merrow, etc). For those who regularly read and engage in the sewing blogosphere and read books like Claire Shaeffers Couture Sewing, this class would have been a cake walk. So without further adieu here are samples I made in class:

Hem (Inside the garment) and Edge (Outside the garment) Facings. Using 1/4" seam allowances (SA) I machine stay stitched the top edge and stitched the edge of the facing to the fabric. After turning facing and pressing the seams, the top edge was folded in to the stay stitched and blind slip stitched to the fabric.

Here is a view of back side of the blind slip stitch, if I used thread to match the fabric, it would appear invisible.

Lace Applique on Silk Organza. Here we used two different kinds of hand stitches to attach lace to organza. I used tiny blanket/afghan stitches and on the applique and edge lace and the overhand stitch.

French and Mock French seams on Organza. The french seam is stronger.....

...but the mock french seam has less bulk.

To be continued.......

Wedding Perfect

2009-04-17T10:10:00.000-07:00

Mr Honnie was in his fraternity brother's wedding so I needed a dress that would be arm-candy worthy. Of course...Burda nailed it...again! My faith in them is increasing and unwavering. I sought out the December 2008 evening wear issue and picked the exclusive design #103. I cut the top as a size 36 then graded up a size at the waist to a 38 in the bottom. It fit PERFECTLY no alterations not complaints, nada, zip, zilch, nichts!! I used a cream silk crinkle chiffon for the bodice and a Chado Ralph Rucci plum double face wool crepe for the skirt. Both were from Mood.

--------

I had to you show you this picture. I was "long-arming" a photo of me and Honnie at the dinner table. I didn't understand why everyone on the other side of the table was giggling at us until I saw the photo......

I was hoping for a cute pic of the 2 of us but the jokester in him couldn't help himself. I can't complain, I actually like it :-)

Vegas Reversa-Makeover!

2009-04-13T09:06:00.000-07:00

Somehow I lost it....my party skirt...I lost it! I still can't find it :-( I made it 2 hours before I had to be at a party a few months ago and it came out just perfect. Then all of sudden it disappeared. As luck would have it, I was counting on it for an outfit during my Vegas trip but didn't bother to check until the day before! I had no plans of buying a new outfit nor time to make a whole new one nor anything I was willing to hack-up into something new......Enter the Reversa-Makeover © (It really isn't copyrighted, I just think it looks cooler with it) Basically I needed to quickly remake an existing garment into something party appropriate BUT it needed to be a reversible makeover so I can return the garment to its original non-party state. So after 30 minutes of giving my closet several passes and a really hard stare, I finally decided on a plain black knit dress. I usually run errands in it, its comfy and I like it the way it is. Time was edging closer to my flight's departure so here is what I came up with.

Here is the before. Just a regular about mid-calf length black v-neck dress . (Ignore the muslin under it...and ignore the mess while your at it)

I cut these geometric acrylic felt thingys and edgestitched them on to either side. I know what you are thinking...yes I used felt on a party garment - but its cheap, and easy to remove. Since the dress is too long for a party I shortened it by making it a "bubble" skirt. I basted the bottom edge and created gathering on the hem to reduce the fullness in the A-line. Then raised the original hem by 6" on the inside and tacked it by hand every 2-3 inches around the inside to keep it in place. The basting stitch for the gathering and the hand tacking are all done purposely so that removing them later on wont damage the dress. Here is the after:

And the action shot!

I rather like the lapel appliques....I might leave them on and just release the bottom. Either way, thank you Reversa-Makeover for saving the day!!

Yes, it's HER!!!!!

2009-04-11T08:45:00.000-07:00

I talk about her all the time...I love her. I love how much she inspires woman. I love how much she enjoys being a woman. And I love how much of herself she puts into everything she does. I see nothing wrong is saying she's my role model and I wanna be just like her when I grow up. Although our meeting was in passing, I hope to have several more encounters with her. I'd love to sit down and pick her brain because I do believe in the transfer of fabulousity via osmosis!

Cindy and Diane Von Furstenberg

I just lost respect for these designers...

2009-04-08T19:46:00.000-07:00

Its quite sad too because they were on my "I hope you never fall into obscurity because you have a timeless appeal and business savvy that I appreciate " list. I appreciate a designer not only for their clothing but the message they deliver to their consumers and observers. The second a designer's head has gotten to be for their proverbial britches that they aren't keeping the finger on the pulse of the fashion business outside of their own house I have a problem. You take a jab at my First Lady then....I HAVE A MAJOR PROBLEM:

Your request is being processed...

ARTICLE: Oscar de la Renta Slams Michelle Obama's Buckingham Outfit As Major Designers Feel Ignored

Oscar...you were my Dominican refuse, the only major designer from our island...but what a pompous jerk you are (or have become). You must really think all dignitaries, A-listers, and other's in the spotlight must somehow justify their position by wearing YOUR clothing or designer YOU believe are in "fashion". You must have dreamed up your own little Ivy League of designers because last time I checked Thakoon, Isabela Toledo, Jason Wu, Micheal Kors, etc were all respected, sometimes lesser known, designers (and quite frankly J. Crew is pretty much an "affordable" Micheal Kors anyway). SO how is she NOT helping the "struggling" fashion industry again????? OHHHH I get it.....she's not helping the overpriced(including bridge lines), over-glorified, over entitled designers like yourself?? Ok gottcha! Good luck with that. A smarter businessman would have shut up and designed a nice sweater and sent it to 1600 Pennsylvania Ave instead of sucking on sour grapes.

Donna....you "hope and believe its a moment"?? I really would like to hear what you meant by this because it makes you sound just as detached as Oscar. You made and continue to make your fortune off of the premise that you design for the modern working woman. Those few words made me realize how you may have lost sight of your own vision. What do you think Michelle is? Why do you think she is so popular? She is right now the most visible, most powerful, most genuine, and most open MODERN WORKING WOMAN (and mom) in America!!! If you think she's going through a phase, you need to wake up! This is who the rest of us MWW want to emulate....maybe you've been hanging with to many celebrities to realize that (I've read your shareholder reports too....seems like you've been out of touch for a while hun)

Vera, I'm not so mad at you. Yes, I do believe all designers have contributions to make and I applaud you for recognizing the young and blossoming designers. But at this point, you are a household name, in fact its synonymous with fabulous weddings, your bridge line is doing well at Khol's...you've made it sweetheart. The biggest contribution to be made by Michelle and Vera collaboration is to your pocket. If we want to talk about contributions to the fashion industry by stimulating new interest in the art and the sheer joy of it all....lets leave it to those good ole youngins you were talking about, huh. Whaddya say???

------------

Side note: As president of CFDA , Diane Von Furstenberg wouldn't be caught saying any of this tomfoolery. Hence, she will remain at the top of that long winded list I mentioned earlier :-) I heart you DVF!!

What Happens In Vegas.......

2009-03-11T16:56:00.000-07:00

I have really great girlfriends. They are the kind of friends you'd hope to have by your side if you are ever find your self in the middle of the desert....in fact I did find myself in the middle of a desert ........in Vegas Baby!!! We just went there for my friend's birthday and had a blast. As always I wasn't content with selection of party clothes in my local stores so decided to whip up a new number for the birthday partying.

I am utterly smitten by the opaque/sheer trend. It's a simple concept with endless possibilities. Since there is a fine line between tacky|chic|trashy I'm in awe when elegant pieces show up on the runway with well balanced design. Personally, I love when the design is a bit edgy like Preen's Fall 09 collection- not that I could wear this anywhere. However, I would love to work more palatable pieces in my wardrobe for everyday wear like the Valentino piece.

Preen

Valentino

I test ran the look on my party dress by creating an off shoulder sheer dress worn over a full length black slip. I used stretch mesh from Spandex House and loose interpretation of the BWOF 103-02-2007 to complete the look. Sorry I didn't get a good frontal shot but here is the other side. The sleeve was set-in and all of the seams were sewn with short and compact zig-zag stitches (small satin stitch). I left the dress and seam hem unfinished but finished the neckline with a 1/2 inch folded hem. As for the seam allowances, I trimmed them to an even 1/4 inch with a rotary cuter and left them unfinished as well. As you can imagine it didn't take very long to complete and I was please with the results. Now I just have to convince myself to focus on completing a new look before I get distracted with another project. (My attention span has been crap lately and my once empty UFO pile is increasing :-( )

QUIZ: What's in the Ruffle??

2009-03-09T15:48:00.000-07:00

While in the Macy's on 34th St I noticed a recurring detail on several evening and cocktail dresses. I fell in love and snapped a photo:

Look at the ruffles in my hand from the hem and the flower detail on the bodice! Simply eye-catching! They are created by taking a pre-coiled nylon thread (not horsehair), possibly between 2-3mm in diameter, and encaseing them in a fabric channel, similar to how you would channel boning. The resistance of the tight coil in the straight channel creates this beautiful warped ruffle (think of it like straightening a telephone cord). This particular dress uses black statin on cream pleated chiffon. Now you tell me, what is the name of the thread creating the ruffle? (Really please tell me, I don't know what it's called or where to find it and I want to use it LOL)

Here is a Catherine Malandrino dress with a similar detail.
Extra Credit: Anyone recognize the designer of the black and white dress I was holding? The girls rushed me out of the store and I have forgotten the name already :-)

Foot Fetish - My Sewing Foot Directory

2009-02-15T06:34:00.000-08:00

I love shoes, really I do. The ones that go on my feet and the ones that go on my sewing machine. I love them so much so that I'm dedicating this post to cover the sewing machine feet that have captured my fancy, and hopefully they will capture yours. I've classified them by necessity and function for your viewing pleasure :-)

For starters, please see my post on inspecting your sewing machine shank. You will need to know this before purchasing generic feet from retailers other than your machine's maker.

**This post is a work-in-progress. I'll update it as I get more information.**

View Spreadsheet

Guess who I am going to go see....

2009-02-09T16:33:00.000-08:00

My Idol...My Muse....My Inspiration: Diane Von Furstenburg

You can join me for just $20-$25 if you are in town. I'm sharing this because I like you...otherwise I would have kept tight lipped about it so I can get good seats LOL.

Much has been going on in the Cindyville, but I have been slacking on the blog posts. Mainly because I get instant gratification from Twitter. No worries, updates my latest finished project and F.I.T. soon to come!!!

Blows kisses Waves

2009-01-26T23:12:00.000-08:00

I would like to the thank the academy for nominating me for this award. They are fabulous individuals and I'm honored that they chose to give me the warmest of all fuzzies! And they are...

a little sewing on the side

Lesalicious

MsMica...Sewnista in the making

Assorted Notions

My Nominees

Ummm.....*enter awkward pause in my proverbial acceptance speech* I'm guilty for not updating my blog feed reader with new blogs. I've become accustomed to just reading blog entries from Google Reader mobile in the bathroom at work. (Oh come on, don't act like you've never taken a "bathroom" break to do non-bathroom things...really?..oh...) Either way, I'm ripping off of Carolyn because most of my blog roll has been nominated and because I can solicit new bloggers to share there stuff with me ;-)

Sooooooo, if you don't see any of your blog posts on the right in my blog roll, I welcome you to shamelessly promote your blog and leave it in this post's comments.....please. I welcome it and it would make life a little easier :-)

Tata's Bata PT 2

2009-01-24T18:13:00.000-08:00

As the ancient urban saying goes: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!" I obviously did something right when I gave my lil ole grand-lady a duster for Christmas last year. She has worn it CONSTANTLY since I gave it to her. In fact, there have been very few times I've seen her without it. Well..since she liked it so much, I made her another!!! No fancy modeling this time, I caught her right before she went to bed and she was tired. But she did have it in her to hold it up for a quick flick. Her slippers didn't match, but she plans on having her home attendant pick a jazzy pair. That's my grandma!!!

Again, the pattern is view B of Kwik-Sew 2172. The instructions are so fabulously detailed, right down to when to trim and overcast/serge seams, that sewing is as mindless and quick as boiling an egg. Bravo Kwik-Sew!

Overjoyed

2009-01-20T18:38:00.000-08:00

I need not bring attention to the historic relevance of this day. I need not commend the valiant efforts of this man and the people who labored by his side. I need not because I hope you already share the same overjoyed sentiments that I am feeling right now.

But what I will do is thank God for the opportunity to witness the realization of a dream several centuries in the making. I will remember the time my High School guidance counselor told me, an A+ involved student, that I couldn't get into NYU. I will remember when my computer science professor at NYU told me he didn't expect me get give a clever answer in front a lecture room. I will remember when I was constantly reminded of my demographic's low graduation rate. I will remember what I defiantly yet innocently knew then in my youth and am assured today with mature conviction...Yes I Can!

Thank you Mr. President.

~CD

Say hello to my little friend.

2009-01-08T07:36:00.000-08:00

I couldn't stand to go on with out a camera and the camera phone idea just didn't fly with indoor nighttime pictures. So I gifted myself a new Canon - PowerShot 8.0MP Digital ELPH Camera in PINK!!! As a Sony Cybershot (CS) convert I have several noteworthy differences that have me very pleased with this purchase. Just so you know, I'm a point-and-shoot kind of photographer so I was aiming for high quality pics and video without requiring too many manual adjustments or understanding of technical photo terms (like ISO) or requiring me to manipulate the environment to get a proper shot. Boy does this little camera deliver!

Notable Specs:

Digital and Optical zoom: My CS only had digital which results in poorer zoom pictures

Face detect and track technology isolates subjects in-frame and optimizes conditions for the best pictures of friends and family and the camera focuses on that person as they move: A very nifty feature that intelligently balances the setting to make faces "pop". It's amazing how it can actually zero-in on several faces for the perfect shot.

Optical image stabilization minimizes shake and vibration distortion: This is for all of us to hate having to prop up against the wall, hold the camera with flexed biceps, AND hold your breath in order to get a still shot. My CS was notorious for distorted shots.

Continuous shooting mode captures up to 1.3 shots per second for fast action shots: I LOVE this feature no more waiting for your camera to get ready when trying to catch fleeting Kodak moments. Just hold the button down and it will continuously capture shots until you release. Great for scrap booking flip-books or playing pretend paparazzi.

Zoom during video recording: I hated that my CS couldn't do this. If I didn’t have the zoom properly set at the commencement of the video I had to stop recording.

Special photo effects include vivid, vivid blue, vivid green, vivid red, neutral, sepia, black-and-white, positive film, lighter skin tone, darker skin tone and custom color for creative images: Gotta have the neat photo effects. The below is taken with one of my favorite features. You can isolate one color in a photo and mute the color in the rest of the photo. Cool, no?

Only Yellow

Only Red

There you have it…this camera gets my golden stamp of approval!

Remembering a Legend...because someone has to do it.

2009-01-03T14:57:00.000-08:00

I've been pretty disheartened by the lackluster media attention given to the passing of a Legend: Eartha Kitt. Not only is she a Legend she wasn't your average octogenarian. Her talent ranged from the Big Screen, Small screen, theatre, dance, singing... you name it she's done it and with a swag that current celebrities can only try to emulate. Living up to her fabulous sex kitten persona up until her last moments...she will alway be a pillar femininity, confidence, and strength. Rest in Peace Eartha. You'll be missed! ...rrrrarrrrrrrrrrrrr

Asleep at the wheel.

2009-01-02T19:16:00.000-08:00

I merrily began cutting away at my tartan fabric for my Mackage inspired coat. I breezed right through it without a care...after all Burda includes the check lines to match plaids on the pattern so I have nothing to worry about, right? WRONG?? I fell asleep at the wheel yall, and I don't even know why it went awry. It's the last of the fabric so it's going to have to stay that way. Take a look:

So far so good. The left and right fronts match; even the the sleeves match. Way to go Burda!

And the back and front of the right sleeve looks pretty straight...WIN!

But wait, what have we here...eek!

Whoa Nelly that looks bad... Like Mama said, measure twice and cut once. *Sigh* There will be others. Next time I won't go on auto-pilot when the pattern contains match lines.

On to happier things. How was your New Years??? Fabu I hope. My friends had an 80's theme costume party and it was uber fun. I was inspired by a little David Bowie and little bit of "The Last Dragon". Here is my outfit.

Here I am with the girls...we are such hams. If this party is indicative of the kind of year I will have...bring on 2009!!!

I spy with my little eye...

2008-12-19T19:13:00.000-08:00

ANOTHER KNOCK-OFF!!! I promised myself to get off my knock-off binge for a while and dream up some doo-dads on my own but damnit...I just cant help it!

My absolute favorite coat designer is Mackage. I bought one 2 years ago and to this day I swear it is one of the smartest fashion splurges I've ever made. Yes, they are on the expensive side, but Lord knows if I had the cash, I'd have each year's collection expressed to my closet. This is the one I'm currently stalking.....

Her name is Tessy....Isn't she a beaut!!!

I never finished my BWOF AKA coat past the muslin stage. It became a UFO because there was something with the style that didn't fit me...I supposed it was the collar and the coat length that didn't work although it fit me lovely. I'm never the one to complete a project for the sake of completing it. That's when joy becomes drudgery. I'm glad I didn't because it is a perfect start to make a Tessy of my own. Clock starts now..I need to have this done before classes start Jan 26!!

Sidebar: I don't have a camera (dropped it last week)...I'm using a computer as old as I am to blog (never fixed my laptop)...so I'm a little technically disadvantaged right now. I'll have to be resourceful so I am apologizing in advance for the crappy cell phone pictures I will probably be taking for a while :-)

Novelties - Half Gloves

2008-12-18T12:10:00.000-08:00

I love novelty accessories. I guess you can argue all accessories are novelty, but I'm talking about the ones that make you stop and say "Now that doesn't make ANY sense...but they are super hot though". That's the half glove for me... there are so many variations: no-finger, 4-finger, 5-finger, knuckles out, different leathers. And they are still unknown enough to conjure a wow factor. I blogged about them on TellMeKC...but truth be told...I didn't buy them....I made them!!!....(sorta) Now I could have bought them in Patricia Field's boutique but I didn't for 4 reasons.

I'm cheap (they raised the price)

Didn't like the new colors (black was sold out)

No lining (they have to be somewhat functional for nyc weather)

I like taking credit for having made them (who doesn't, lol)

So I mosied over to Filene's Basement and picked-up some Italian leather lined gloves for $20 and promptly took them to home to meet my sewing machine. For starters I put them on and used white chalk to mark curve on my hand to ensure it cuts properly when I bend my hand without it feeling awkward. Then I chalked a 1/2 inch seam allowance and cut. I used the scrap as a guide to cut the other glove symmetrically.

After cutting it was smooth sailing. I used paper clips to keep back the seam allowance as I sewed since pins leave marks in leather and ran it through the machine. I hand sewed the exposed edges to the lining inside.

Viola! Done before the episode of Heroes was over!!! When you take it out of the context of movies, celebutants, etc you're left with a funky new item to jazz up your winter wardrobe that just about anyone can get away with. I LOVE IT!!

RESURRECTED

2008-12-17T16:29:00.000-08:00

Resurrected....my blog has been resurrected and repurposed!!! So much has happened in the past couple of months. The obvious happening is the "Wall St by Day" part of my moniker. It's no big secret Wall St is in the pooper, and unlike my blog, it may never be resurrected into it's better known state. It's been really hard for alot of the people (the little people like me) on the Street and throw the damn near global recession in the mix and its been really hard for LOADS of people on many streets. My silver lining in this mess is that fact that humans are innately resilient and creative in difficult situations. Many major advances in civilization were incepted during times of scarce resources and hard times. Therefore, I'm happy to be young right now, because I expected the worlds collective resurrection to be massively impressive (and maybe I'll finally get that hover-car that should have come out in 2000!)

My blog format will change a bit and I will be focusing on developing my creativity. So except me to take some risks with my projects and draw inspiration from stuff that may or may not be directly related to current fashion. Also, I've become very interested with how people interpret art..namely fashion..so I'm looking forward to having more interactive dialogues with people out there in the blogosphere. Now don't think I've abandoned technique for the theory...very much the contrary...because this ole' girl is a officially an FIT student!!!! *doing my happy jig* I enrolled in the Haute Couture track to a certificate degree. I haven't received a syllabus yet, but best believe I will be sharing all the nitty gritty details!

RANDOM: Did you see my husband-in-a-different-time-and-dimension/President-Elect Obama's college years pictures in TIME. One word.....seeeexxxxxaaaayyyyy. Even then he had killer swag. Humina humina.

Still gone fishin'...

2008-09-07T18:36:00.000-07:00

Hey all you craftalicious ones, I'm still on a craft sabbatical of sorts. Just so you know, I really haven't been sewing or crafting at all for the past two months. No, I haven't lost my passion... and No it didn't just fall off my priority list. I just took the summer off to realign my time with my future plans. Funny, I never put much stock into my age...but this year I really started to wonder if I'm really on track to hit my career and personal goals before its too late. So I took the summer to do some life planning and have come to several good conclusions. I have some surprizes in the works so the next time I post I'll have some exciting news. Just to give you a hint...I plan on being F.I.T. in more ways than one before 2008 is over. In the meantime, stay crafting!!!

XOXO

QUIZ!!!

2008-06-11T18:18:00.000-07:00

What's wrong with this otherwise cute Forever 21 blouse?

Hint: I bought and wore it numerous times last year but didn't notice until recently. I'm sure I gave people some good laughs. *Smh* Don't let this happen to you while shopping or sewing.

Urban Jungle...The Reveal

2008-06-08T17:58:00.000-07:00

The due date was eons ago and I only finished 3 of the required 4 pieces...nonetheless I finished my Safari Chic Mini-Wardrobe Collection!!! I call it Urban Jungle (Cue Coming to America theme music, lol)

The waistcoat is a BWOF 107-04-2008 cut in a size 38. I opted not to go with the belt (again short torso-not flattering) and made it about 3/4" inch shorter at the hem. The skirt is officially my first TNT pattern, BWOF 116-09-2007. I used a black satin wool from Metro Textiles. The fabric is absolutely amazing, wrinkle resistant, lustrous just wonderful.

Back View.

Close up. I must say that the buttons for the waistcoat were taken from an old H&M pea coat I recently threw away. My mom always ripped the buttons off old clothes before trashing them (unless there were to be donated) and saved them for later projects. I'm glad I picked up that habit because they were a perfect match.

Vouge 8379 is officially my second TNT pattern.

Close Up. The fabric is from my Textile Studio haul. Neat no? I thought the black belt was a nice touch to break up the pattern. I adore this wrap dress. If you don't have it or have it and haven't sewn it, get to it!! You won't regret it!

The interwoven Onyx/Brass chevron bangle is from H&M. I finally tracked James down and got the shoes I ordered from Bakers. I LOVE them, and surprisingly comfortable from 4.25"!

This was definitely fun! It inspired me to do a SWAP one day. In the meantime, I will now return to my regularly scheduled sewing :-)

I'm gonna SET OFF in 5..4....3...

2008-06-07T12:27:00.000-07:00

One thing you should know about me....nothing comes between me and pair of shoes I want. The good Lawd knows if a pair of shoes becomes the object of my affection its a WRAP! Done deal! They are mine, its just a matter of how much and when. Now, I am a reasonable women, and I do appreciate that shoe love affairs may be fleeting as the seasons and finances are limited. Therefore, if I can't have the real thing I stalk every internet site and local shoe store until I find a knock-off the satisfies my shoe hunger before it blows up and sends my next paycheck down the tubes (Thank you Honnie, Donna, and Kaiesha for preventing that from happening).

Past affections include these spring 2006 Country Pump from Dior. So yummy (enter Homer Simpson drool here). I never bucked the $700, but Auturo Chiang had an awesome renditions for $40 that made me happy. I have also fallen for many a pair of Christian Louboutin pumps (before the mainstream caught on...now red soles are so overdone).

You can only assume at the my latest obession comes from none other than the Sex and The City movie. Dior's Exterme Gladitor Platforms are TOO DIE FOR!!! I blushed everytime they came on screen (I damn near had a coronary when they opened the doors to her closet).

Dior $770

Baker Shoes $69.95

I ordered these puppies as soon as I saw them and had every intention to debut them with my freshly sewn FO's today however Fedex had VERY different intentions. Some BRANIAC delivery person sent my shoes to the WRONG HOUSE. Differenet building #, Different Street name and the only thing they got right is the damn Apt number!! I swear this person must be studing for the Bar because only a pure GENIUS can fumble a order that bad. PLUS my name is CINDY...very girly and I can almost be sure that the 70 something year old man who got my shoes doesn't quiet "look" like a Cindy. So I'm at my desk yesturday and I get a mid morning call from an unknown number on my cell phone. This being very odd, since everyone knowns not to call me during work hours, I picked up. The conversation I wish NO one ever has to experience went as follows:

Cindy: Hello?
James: Uh..Hi...
Cindy: Hi?...
James: What's in the box?
Cindy: What do you mean whats in the box? Who is this?
James: I have a box here, I wanted to know what it is.
Cindy: (Puts 2 & 2 together) Oh damn, they delivered my box to the wrong address. Please don't open the box I'll come by to pick it up. Where are you, what's your name?......

I couldn't go home because I had S-Factor right after work and its Pole Week (I take Pole week very seriously) so I called him back and ask him if it was OK if I came tomorrow and he said yes. Its "tomorrow"and its 4:30pm - I have been calling all day...I CAN'T find James! My day has gone to waste trying to get this man on the phone so I can get my shoes :-(

My takeways on from this experience: avoid using FedEx as your carrier. This is not my first bad experience with them and I NEVER have a problem with UPS. Always leave your phone number on the shipping information. Its usually optional but in the event this was to happen to you at least you can be located via phone.

Wish me luck ya'll. If you don't see a picture of my 6.5's in those pumps before sun down, just know I done went off on some customer service agent at FedEx :-(

The words SA-FA-RI !!!!

2008-05-17T08:02:00.000-07:00

FYI this post is OLD....I wrote it and forgot to publish it because I did not take some "inspiration" pictures off my wall. I'm actually a little further along but I'm in Philly with my Honnie bear, I'll update wen I'm back in the city :-)

My latest obsession is safari inspired clothing (it's probably yours too,lol...its so infectious), inclusive of animal prints, natural hues and masculine cargo details on feminine silhouettes...it is soo me the girly tom-boy.

I'm going to make a Mini Safari Collection. My sister encouraged me join the mini wardrobe contest on PR. I probably will not make the deadline but I will still want follow the guidelines. I'm trying to get the hang of sewing faster without compromising quality and sew items that work well together. This contest calls for 4 pieces, I think I can handle that. I'm aiming for 1 waistcoat, 1 dress, 1 skirt and 1 blouse. The first piece will be this BWOF waistcoat sans belt (well maybe I'll keep it, but a thinner version. It's pettie sizing, why the hizzie is the belt like 4" wide??).

BWOF 107-04-2008

I'm midway through the construction and sew far sew good. I used some more of the fabric I ordered from Gorgeous Fabric and I found this ancient animal print in my stash from when I still lived in the Bronx. How glad am I that I didn't use it until now! Here is what is looks like right now.

I will say that this pattern call for Vilene tape. Which is a German product that is kind of a non-woven fusible stay/bias tape. It's purpose is a stabilize seams and curves. As a substitute I used 1/4 inch "Steam 2 Seam" and clipped notches on my regular stay tape....I think it will work....I hope, lol.

Pretty Pleated and Out the Closet

2008-05-16T06:44:00.000-07:00

BWOF 116-09-2007

So I really don't remember when I finished this skirt because I've worn it so many times. I finally made something work appropriate and my co-workers loved it and I absolutely adore it. I traced a size 38 and no pattern alterations were necessary - it fit just right.

I purchased this fabric with the gift card from Gorgeous Fabrics Mimi G sent me. It has some elastene in it so its perfect for long hours at a desk.

Over all I'm a SERIOUS BWOF convert. Their silhouettes are so refreshing and aside from the whole tracing ordeal haven't found my self requiring much fitting time....I'm in love....but not convinced enough to pay for the subscription, lol.

********

So I alluded to something earlier I just want get back to it. I CAME OUT THE CLOSET AT MY JOB ....the couture closet that is. I mentioned to a co-worker that I sew and she ran me down the following week to be featured in a "celebrating our own series" which celebrates the talent of our colleagues. I actually brought in my work and was interviewed Oprah style in front of a room of men and women employees. and to my surprise the organizer contacted my boss' boss to come in. He couldn't make it he so he sent some kinds word about me that was read out loud. Later on, in a mini town hall my boss' boss' boss mentioned my talent's recognitions in front of all the people in my division..... I was flattered and half way mortified.

Ok that was a mouthful but this was a huge day for me. I chose the title of by blog as statement and proclamation that you can have your cake and eat it too. We can pursue a fab career yet not suppresses our domestic desires..revel in them even. But before that day I only considered my audience ..you, the creative person...wherever you are who might be inspired to pick up a piece of something and make something after a long day with the kids...long day of lectures...or the crazy work day because you are worth your OWN time to explore You!

This is my philosophy, my mantra. however I forgot something. My audience is actually everyone I ever have the fortune to connect with, including my co-workers AND managers. Because I work at a large investment bank (stiff suits, old boys club, etc) I suppressed my girly side at work in fear that people would take me less seriously. So much so, that I wouldn't even share a drop of emotion when my Honnie called me. And I especially did not have ANY intention on sharing my after hour activities.

However, Cindy's expose did the very opposite of damage. People felt like that knew more about me and I had an entry point into conversation with so many people. Slowly but surely I dropped my barriers and embraced just being myself at work. Since I have convinced 2 people to explore their creative side in a new way and the kicker...I'm so much more confident and proud of my work (in and out of the office).

This happened the week of my B-Day but I wanted to share after the dust had settled. :-)

Sunday Dress

2008-05-14T00:34:00.000-07:00

Squinty Squinty

I finished my Vouge 8379 wrap dress the Sunday before last, right in time to make it to church. I bought this polyester jersey from Metro Textiles last year because it screamed DVF. I used this pattern after all of the pretty success stories on pattern review. There were several recurring pattern alterations so I didn't bother making a muslin and just went with the recommendations and added a few of my own:

Added 5/8" to the bodice and back. But be sure to add to the front facing as vogue forgot to add the 'lengthen here' line on those pieces.
Lengthen the straps by 3 Inches
3 removed 2 inches from the hem.
Interfaced the keyhole opening for the straps
I did raise the armhole about a half inch. By increasing the seam allowance at the top of each armhole and gradually reduced it along the side it the normal seam allowance. The armhole sat a bit too low off my shoulder too my liking. I didn't finalize this last alteration on my pattern because I'm not sure it will vary depending on the stretch of the fabric I used.

The only thing I didn't like was the hand stiched hem. I shy away from hems I can't run through a sewing machine. Again...I need a damn serger. Over all I absolutley LOVE this pattern and I see myself making a good 2-3 more of these before the end of the year.

Oh and Mimi J tagged me for the book meme. You know the deal...I'm the last one to do it...so let me just share my quote. *turning pages* Ok..as luck would have it the book doesn't have a page 123 because its blank sheet. But here are the last couple of lines of the last chapter:

"I think more likely, though, if you asked Thomas and Kerry about it, they'd tell you that successful leaders are the ones who get out of the mind-set that they're just in the business of business and realize that they are also in the business of life. And because of the that, financial results will follow"

This is from The Big Five for Life by John P Strelecky author of The Way Cafe. This is a MUST read for every working girl, entrepreneur, or anyone with life aspirations. Its a quick read, grab it when you get the chance.

I'm soo sleeepy...I feel the wit and charm being drained out of me as I type....I have more new fabric, completed projects, pattern and updates but I just too pooped. Forgive me, I will type up my post on the train to work on my brand spanking new handy dandy pink Centro *huggs phone*.

Ok I'm out...

I'm it!

2008-05-08T17:47:00.000-07:00

By way of the wonderful and far reaching internet kayellejaye tagged lil ole me.
Choosing 6 "unspectacular" things about me won't be hard ....like ta' hear it? Here it go..

1. My biggest pet peeve is hearing people mispronounce words or get the words wrong to a song I know..ESPECIALLY if it's a song I love....it drives me half crazy. However...I do it ALL the time!

2. I collect stuff...rather...I'm a connesiuer of treasured items ....like my Snoopy figurine collection...my coin collection...and my 15 year old Power Ranger collection....I can't believe I just shared that.

3. I have a closet full of very nice clothes but I wear the same slacks and tops to work everyday.

4. After 9-11 I developed a slight fear of flying. Ever since, when I fly I MUST have a window seat where I can keep my eye on the wing. I think my mind is confusing 9-11 with that William Shatner episode of Twilight Zone .....

5. I secretly dream about playing Velma Kelly in Chicago on Broadway. How many people do you know can sing all the words to All That Jazz (Fosse hands included)??

6. And for the grand finale of all things unspectacular about Cindy....I only buy/use sponges and soap that match the decor of my kitchen and bathroom.

These very talented and unsuspecting people are now it!

Paco Peralta
Danielle
Lesa
Karen
Loopylulu
Narcissaqtpie

Here are the rules:
-Link the person who tagged you.
-Mention the rules in your blog.
-Tell about 6 unspectacular quirks of yours.
-Tag 6 following bloggers by linking them.
-Leave a comment on each of the tagged blogger’s blogs letting them know they’ve been tagged.

Are you high?

2008-05-06T16:12:00.000-07:00

Unfortunately I'm low...shank that is. I'm pretty sad about it because I found this pretty cool bias tape binding presser foot in a small sewing supply store in Chelsea last week for only $12....alas it was for high shank sewing machines. My sewing machine came with a boat load of presser feet (of the snap-on kind) so I never checked my shank height until recently. In fact I didn't know how check until now. I'm sure its written somewhere in my machine manual but I learn more with Google which led me to this instruction on Nancy's Notions.

So I'm shopping for a low shank, adjustable, preferably snap-on bias binding presser foot in the $12 price range (I'm already over my May sewing budget). I'm thinking about getting this one. Can anyone offer a recommendation? I'm interested in upping my Hong Kong finish game.

Ken's Sewing

Excellent Blog Award!!!

2008-05-03T18:18:00.000-07:00

The marvelous Mimi G nominated me for and Excellent Blog Award!!! I'm so flattered *blushing* Thank You Mimi!!! Now I was tasked with choosing 10 more blogs to nominate...but I as I can see we all frequent the same blogs!! I chose my 10 only to find out they were already nominated so I added a few more :-)

Trina Turk Knock-Off!! (Finally) Updated

2008-04-27T17:00:00.000-07:00

Although it has been 2 months after I completed the dress, I'm finally posting on the construction details of my Trina Turk Knock-Off. My computer is still dead but the Geek Squad successfully retrieved all my data including the pictures for this post :-) So here it goes!

I'm a fan of Trina Turk dresses. I consider them to be statement dresses yet the details are very simple. Even the advertisements are simple;it doesn't take much work to sell her dress...well....except when it comes to the price....

This simple black and white color blocked number was sitting on my inspiration wall for a few weeks when the RTW contest was announced. I promised myself I was going to remake it so contest gave me that extra little nudge to get it done :-)

I purchased McCall M5583 during a $2.99 sale...the pictures on the envelope are truly uninspiring but I more so concerned with the silhouette - A-line shift dress with belled sleeves. (I love McCall's but sometimes you really need to block out their fabric choices to avoid discriminating against an otherwise cute pattern.) I used view C, pictured below as a retro black sheer dress.

My first step after cutting the pattern was to figure out these sleeves. In fact...I finished the sleeves before I even cut the dress fabric. My high school dean used to say K.I.S.S. (Keep It Simple Stupid) and it has been my sewing mantra ever since this dress. If a solution seemed to complicated then I was probably going about it the wrong way. So I'll spare you the methods that didn't work and share what did.

I took the sleeve pattern, as is, and transfered it onto a fresh piece of pattern paper and cut a replica. I marked a line down the center of the sleeve to ensure the design was symmetrical and marked a seam allowance to adjoin the inner sleeve (more on that later). I studied the dress a little and noticed the black stripes where about 1/3 the size of the white stripes. I chose to go with 1.25" black and 2.25" white strips because I thought it would look better with my proportions since I'm not a 5'11 like the girl in the ad. the vertical lines tapered into 1.25" to the sleeve cap. When it was time to draw the curves I left no room for error...I went straight to my cupboard and whipped a can of tomato puree. I matched the edges of the can with my line and traced the curves. I started to get lazy so instead of repeating on the other side I just used tracing paper to mark the rest of the curves. The sleeve pieces were ready to cut! But before I did that I had to dummy-proof each section my marking "1 0f 5 - black".."2 of 5 white"...etc.

With a fresh piece of pattern paper I transferred the sleeve pieces and added the traditional 5/8" seam allowance. I then proceeded to cut the fabric. Since this was a warm weather dress I decided to go with black and white double knit. However, the white fabric was flimsy in comparison to the black so I backed it with knit fusible interfacing and omitted the allowances.

Sewing inverted curves takes a little be of getting used to. Attempted to follow the directions in my books but I opted out. I sniped notches in the seam allowance BEFORE sewing the curves together instead of after like the books suggested. I just had to make sure i didn't snip past the allowance. Now ,I used white thread...but I couldn't help but think I should have used black bobbin thread.

Press-y Press-y!

Several inverted curves later and I had two sleeves! I sewed the front and back peices of the dress together. However, I omitted the zipper since I didn't use a woven as the pattern suggested. I also took off 5" from each side seam hem and tapered int to the waist...just to make it a little more flattering...you know.

Then it was time for the neck facing. Now the pattern sugessted that I make bias tape for my neck facing...but it just wouldn't work for this dress. I did not intended on exposing any stiching on the dress so topstiching was a no-no. I cut neckline facing by useing the dress pattern as a guide and fused a black knit interfacing. Then I stay-stitched the facing to allowance and pressed.

You can't tell from the picture, but I assumed Trina Turk (or her intern) would have have done either 2 things with the inside of the sleeve. Either face it entirely with one color or mimic the outside pattern in the inside. I went with former and it was as simple as cutting another set of sleeve and sewing to the hems of the outer sleeve. Again, I stay-stitched the inner sleeve to the allowance and pressed.

At the very top of the sleeves I trimmed the allowance and used my overcasting foot to sewing the inner sleeve to the armscyes seam allowance. (Having a serger would have come in handy!)

If you look closely you can aslo see the stay tape I used in the shoulder seam.

So this is what it looks like when I raise my arms :0)

That's my dress construction!! It was fun challenge that helped me shake my fear of sewing inverted curves....standing collars here I come!!!

I do have 2 other completed project I'm working on ... please bare with me as I blog at the speed of tree sap. I did, however get a Palm Centro with the Sprint unlimited EVERYTHING plan. I'm in love...really. I actually check my Google Reader religiously which has turned me into a lurker. But do trust, I am keeping up with you Fab Blogistas ...which reminds me...my blog roll is way over due for an update!

*************Update**************
Just answering some questions

From Arline:

1. Re: the lining of the sleeve - do I understand that the entire sleeve lining is indeed sewn onto the inside of the outer sleeve and stitched at all junctures - in other words, the side seam of the sleeve, the hem of course and around the entire armscye? So first, while it's flat, the completed sleeve and lining would be sewn across the hem of the sleeve right sides together and then turned right sides out and THEN sides seams stitched together and then that is then stitched to the armscye? So, around the armscye there are actually 3 layers in the seam: one from the outer sleeve, one from the inner sleeve lining and the third layer from the armscye of the dress? Just want to make sure my mental pic is on track here!

I thought about that approach (Sew Hem then Side Seam) first but I realized that after the hem was sewn I had to sew the lining side seam and the outer sleeve in one long stitch. It would have been quicker but there would be a problem. I wanted the inner sleeve *slightly* smaller (about 1/16") than the outer so that it doesn't cause bunching on the inside. The best way for me to ensure both outer and inner sleeves measured properly was for me to sew the side seams separately then the hems together...I'm anal....I know...... :-(

As for the Armscye, there are 3 layers but only 2 were to sewn together at a time to reduce the bulk. Here is the order: 1. Sew outer sleeve to the dress. Press seam allowances *open*. Trim and overcast outer sleeves seam allowance. 2. Trim the seam allowance of the inner sleeve (by however much its turned up at the hem ) Then sew the inner sleeve to the dress seam allowance. Trim and overcast or use a serger if you are fancy.

The sleeve was well balanced this way.

2. You said: I chose to go with 1.25" black and 2.25" white strips because I thought it would look better with my proportions since I'm not a 5'11 like the girl in the ad. the vertical lines tapered into 1.25" to the sleeve cap. So, the WHITE stripes were much wider at the bottom part and then you started tapering them in as you got closer to the top of the sleeve cap, correct? You didn't have to taper the black stripes at all since they were already only 1.25" wide, correct? You only tapered the vertical lines in the white stripes, yes? Trying to picture and grasp this in my little brain ...

You nailed it!

From Cidell:

Can you tell us about the paper you're using for tracing?

The paper pictured is actually not the tracing paper. It a 10 yd roll of pattern paper ($3 at Mood) with 1" gridline. However, I will be on the look out for tracing paper with a grid....

Cool New STUFF!!!

2008-03-25T19:56:00.000-07:00

Truth be told...I like presents....no, I LOVE presents. Big or small, home made or purchased... I absolutely love receiving gifts. I have family (especially my sister) to thank for that....I was spoiled, so receiving gifts is definitely my love language. It's a big world and when someone takes the time to show little ole' me that they care, it means so much too me. o:-)

Now imagine my delight that during this month, my birth month, I received a bevy of wonderful gifts from even more wonderful people!!

Marsha from Textile Studio Patterns was gracious enough to donate gift certificates for the winners of the Pattern Review RTW Contest. I PROMPTLY reedeem my prize with a this handsome load of fabric. It just came in yesterday....aren't they GAW-JUS!!! I definitely recommend her taste in fabric!!!

All That Jazz Jersey Knit	Nicole Miller Ivory Eyelet
Nicole Miller Metallic Brown Novelty	Another White Shirting

I really wanted to share a picture of Mimi Jackson's PIF gift but my laptop is still getting serviced so I'll describe it. I was really touched by this gift because I realized Mimi has been "listening" to me via my blog posts and comments on her's. She included a copy of this painting her sister made years ago that I adored, some kinds word in response to this post, and a lovely card with a picture of dress sewn with a map of Manhattan (I ♥ NY!!). I blog because I love the camaraderie between me and my sewing friends I have yet to meet and this gift reassured me. THANKS MIMI J!!!

Mimi Goodwin...who must have had her eldest daughter when she was 4... raffled a gift certificate to help her pick the logo of her upcoming clothing line (I can't wait!). THANKS MIMI G!!! A girl could NEVER have too much fabric ;-) I ordered this lovely stretch woven - perfect for work!!

Ease on Down the Road Stretch - Ecru

Dawn from the Secret Pocket gave me a great gift...she put me on to the vintage DRTIZ bound buttonhole maker. Once she posted the tutorial on how to use it...I HAD to have one....(..I think I'm becoming a notion-aholic!) Luckily there happened to be one on Ebay at the same time! I stalked that little puppy for the last 3 minutes of the auction until it was all mine. It came with the instruction sheet (let me know if you need a copy if it) and assorted notions from the 50's. Thanks for sharing Dawn!!

While on the hunt for a dress for my party I *accidentally* found myself in the garment district and inside of Sil Thread....my favorite place to shop for notions. They carry a large inventory of Clover products which I actually favor over Dritz because Clover tends to focus on modernizing classic notions by making them even easier to use...and cuter :-) Case in point. They are, however, slightly pricer that Dritz, but worth it in my eyes because they offer quality products.

I picked up 3 Chalk powder dispensing pens. Classic white, blue and for kicks-pink! If you still use tailors chalk, or a chalk pencil PLEASE do yourself the favor and get a powder dispenser! Why you ask? For one, solid chalk will force your draaaggg your fabric while your marking which affect the fabric position and grain line for loose wovens. Not to mention you may have drag your chalk over and over to get a decent mark. The dispenser lays trail of chalk power on to the fabric via the pinwheel at the tip. The Clover pen is tapered that top so that you can mark with pen like accuracy. Neat, no?
I also picked up a double tracing wheel since I am now a BWOF convert. Here are Cidell's thoughts on tracing BWOF patterns.

I got a Clover 1/2" Bias tape maker (they also have 1/4", 3/4", 1", and 2") because I can never find bias tape in the right colors. I haven't used it yet but it has great review on JoAnn's website. Also a Clover buttonhole cutter made its way in my cart, because it only takes ONE time for me to accidentally snip into my freshly sewn buttonhole for me realize I need one. I just need to figure out what goes below the buttonhole when using the cutter.....thoughts?

Lastly I picked up this Combicut tweezer - seam ripper combo. Slide left to rip seams - slide right to tweeze hard to reach stragglers. Now I don't need to run to by cosmetic drawer!

It's been about a year and 1/2 since I started S-Factor and every minute has it been amazing. Not only has it helped me maintain my girlish figure but I have a great time with my fellow S-girls. Now thanks to my Honnie, I can get my S on at home!!! (Yes...its a pole, lol)

Till next time..Smooches!!

Good News. Bad News.

2008-03-15T10:05:00.000-07:00

GOOD NEWS.

Now that it has passed I can share something I made for my linesister's bridal shower. All of the bridesmaids planned a "fabulous" (a la Christian Sirano, lol) shower in Brooklyn two weeks ago. I decided to make a special pill box hat with a wedding veil. I must thank Nancy W @ Encue Creations for posting the video tutorial on this. Doesn't she look lovely! I can't wait for the wedding next month.

BAD NEWS.

My laptop DIED. I was rocking back and forth in a corner waiting for the Geek Squad to call and tell me everything is ok...alas...I arrived at Best Buy to hear the sad news that my sweet Vaio expired. She was only 3 years old!! So young...so sad *sob*sob* The worst part is ALL my pictures are on the hard drive...the memories of the 3 most exciting years of my life locked in hunk of broken metal. I'm going to send it to a Data Recovery center to get my life out of there. The estimated costs could be anywhere between $250-$1500....please PRAY to the good baby Jesus its the low end of that!!

GOOD NEWS.

My birthday is coming up on the 20th. WHOO HOO the big 25!! I took couple of days off to pamper and entertain myself. On the menu we have eyebrows by Damone Roberts, massage by Ease Salon, haircut by G's, nails by Serenity, facial by Red Door and party at BLVD.

BAD NEWS.

Now that I have to pay for a Data Recovery...and a new laptop...I have to demote my deluxe menu to a basic package..*sigh* :-(

GOOD NEWS.

I won the RTW Contest on Pattern Review!! Thank you all you sweet people for your generous comments and for voting! February was a really tough month for me and I really wanted to enter the contest because working on the dress was the only "me-time" I was able to attain during that time and I would have been highly pissed if I missed the deadline. Everyone did a wonderful job on their pieces ! At the end of the day, everyone is winner! Thank you Cidell for being the awesome moderator you are! I can't wait to see the judges selection :-)

Even More GOOD NEWS.

Mimi Jackson sent her Pay-it-Forward to me. She is truely a sweetheart. I'll stop right here because I can't upload any new pictures until I get my computer situation together again and I want to share this gift with everyone.

Until next time. Smooches.

RTW Contest Submission

2008-03-02T18:14:00.001-08:00

My submission for the Pattern Review RTW Contest is in! Construction details are in the works!! I the meantime, there is a nifty voting button next to my entry...it gets lonely when it doesn't get clicked 0:-)

In case you haven't noticed......

2008-02-17T07:43:00.000-08:00

My sister, Donna (a.k.a Sissy-Poo), has decided keep with our mom's tradition of home sewing. Please visit her at her new blog, Dishmey Style Boutique, as she begins her sewing journey.

Ps. Thank you for all your words of encouragement!! I'm lightening my load right now. I'll be back on a regular basis soon!! Smooches!

Bandwidth. Ambivalence. Pace.

2008-02-09T04:58:00.000-08:00

As I site here twirling my spoon in my yogurt cup (I’m taking the Dannon Activia Challenge…quite tasty), avoiding thinking about all that I have to get done this weekend…I am reminded why I even started this blog.

I want to be a Superwoman when I grow up…I want it all. The Corporate Maven, Domestic Diva, and Femme Fatale all rolled up in a little package I call Me. I wake up every morning burning for perfection- I want to learn more, do more and work harder but the truth is I’m only one person. I can only do so much in one day/week/month. I know very well how much bandwidth I have to accomplish my goals yet I always try to push myself further – past the line of ‘enough’ into the land of ‘too much’.

Yet and still…I put more on my plate. My mind says “Woman-up Cindy…just get it done!” while my body is “No mas por favor. I need a BREAK!!” I’ve volunteered my time for 3 side projects at work, which are all due this month (one presentation is on Tuesday). When I get home from work (whenever that is) I go to sleep wake up in the middle of the night to sew then back. I have S Factor on Friday so I need to muster-up some energy dance for 2 hours! Not to mention planning my Linesister’s fabulous Bridal Shower, my birthday extravaganza and my suffering blogging time. Concentrating too much time on one task makes me feel guilty I’m not working on something else (I’m feeling it right now as I write this post…I should be cleaning/sewing). I’m tired…very tired, so tired that I’m starting to grow ambivalence for the very objects of my affection.

What’s the point in being Superwoman when you’re not enjoying it? I’m on a mission to pace myself. My first step is to live in the moment and be honest with myself. When I can, I will. When I can’t I’ll regretfully say no. And when I’m tired I’ll sleep.

~3~

I have much to report otherwise. My partner, Kaiesha, and I attended New York Mercedez-Benz Fashion week as press from our blog TellMeKC.com. It was our first fashion week and it was so neat!!! She attended Cynthia Steffe and Vivienne Tam and I attended Zac Posen. I haven’t posted on the show yet (pacing myself, remember) but I’ll let you know went its up ;-)

Tata's Bata

2008-01-28T11:08:00.000-08:00

I finally gave my grandmother her Christmas present....yeah I know...it's almost February. Honeslty, I didn't even think about making her a gift until I saw Mimi J. was making one for her grandmother who, sadly, has since passed away.

Christmas Day I gave Tata (that is her pet name, given by my eldest brother who couldn't pronouce abuela when he was a toddler) an I.O.U promising I would make her a bata (nightgown) as she desired. She wanted a long gown with 13 inch sleeves in purple because she knows that it is my favorite color. This being the first time I've sewn a garment for someone else, I was delighted that she loved it!!

I used view B of Kwik-Sew 2172. I highly recommend it if you want to make something for your for the lil ole lady in your life.

This was few seconds before she made the cutest face...She liked it!!

She is stylin' with her matching slippers!!!

I sneaked a back pic :-)

Sew Chic

2008-01-23T01:17:00.000-08:00

2008 is going to be a VERY good year....I just know it. I just came back from the Best. Weekend. Ever. visiting my best friend in DC. It was like being an undergrad all over again... but I digress.

I finished my Grandma's night gown and I'm going to bring it to her today. I'll post on that a little later. I really wanted to show THIS:

Lookie how cute this pun cushion is!!!! I saw this in the Sil Thread the past weekend and had to have it!! Aside from being the most divafied notion I've seen thus far...it is also quite funtional. I can fit about 20 dressmaker pins in there with ease and it so much more conveniet to reach for you pins. I actually look forward to pinning now. But the best part is...now I have a routine when I'm about to start sewing. Look in the mirror. Put my ring on. Flip my hair. Get to sewing!

Clover -Adjustable Ring Finger Pin Cushion
$9.79

Next Project - AKA Commemorative Coat!!

2008-01-15T13:15:00.000-08:00

"I think that I shall never know, another love that thrills me so...dwells in my heart by night by day - as does my love for A.K.A. I think that I shall never fear, where hearts are Loyal, True and Dear...."

On January 15, 2008 my beloved Sorority, Alpha Kappa Alpha Sorority, Incorporated celebrates her 100th Anniversary. Founded by 20 phenomenal woman on the campus of Howard University, as the first Sorority for collegiate Black woman. 100 years later, thousands of phenomenal woman have taken the oath of sisterhood and supreme service to all mankind.

This year I also celebrate my 5th AKAversary with my 3 linesisters (I'm #3). This is a picture of us on campus the night after we crossed in the wee hours of the morning. Our big sisters had a surprise get together and invited local Greeks to hang with us.

4, 3, 2, 1

I was the crafter of the line. I made these padded photo albums with pink and green satin and sequins and calligraphed a poem inside. The front had an Ivy Leaf (our symbol) trimmed with 20 pearls. This was our line gift to our Dean and Assistant Dean and they loved it!

In commemoration of our 100th year and my line's 5th year I'm going to make this coat from the September BWOF - view 107. Although it is unseasonably warm in in NYC right now, I hope to get some good wears in before spring hits.
This fabric was purchased when I went shopping with Carolyn and I knew immediately it would be a coat one day. Salmon Pink and Apple Green are our colors, and the brown complements the two nicely. I haven't started yet. Mainly because this is my first BWOF and I'm terrified of tracing it all wrong. I'm also terrified of preshrinking this heavy wool. I don't know if I should steam it, soak then line dry, or just take it to the cleaners :-(
I better hurry up...I want to wear it now!

Get it while its HOT!!!

2008-01-10T20:24:00.000-08:00

Many of times I've seen an uber cute RTW ensemble or garment and was delighted when I found a similar pattern online. Sometimes the patterns match the garment to every little detail.

However for the first time ever, I found and ENTIRE RTW collection based off of a fabric that I already have. Imagine my amazement and delight when I walked by Banana Republic and saw this:

and this!

I posted on this fabric from my huge stash from Kashi at Metro Textile Corp. Last time I checked he still had some. If you are interested give him a call at 212.209.0004 and he will ship it to you. Cidell I hope you did the right thing and purchased it!!

Signé Chanel - A Must See!

2008-01-07T19:07:00.000-08:00

Signé Chanel is a rare in depth look into the inner workings of the legendary Parisian couture house of CHANEL. The series follows a Chanel's Haute Couture line from its inception to the runway show. The editing of is very clever, humours, and surprisingly down-to-earth.

I first became aware of this series by eavesdropping a conversation held by Parsons students while waiting in line for the Proenza Schouler for Target opening in SoHo (oh how I burned-up my AMEX that day). I’ve seen many mentions of the series that past couple of weeks so I thought it was time to sit down and watch it. IT IS SO GOOD! My eyes were welted with tears of joy the whole time. I even contemplated quitting my job and becoming a humble Chanel intern…(right)

I noted a few of my favorite highlights from the series and I included all 20 videos for your viewing ease :-) Get some popcorn you’re in for a treat!

Karl Lagerfeld is a Genius. When he sketches people move!
NO machines are used Haute Couture. Period.
No matter how well-constructed the garment is, if it's not "chic" it will not see the light of day.
According to Oprah...I don't know living in NYC is not normal.
The only thing that comes before CHANEL is hay.

Episode One - Anticipation

Episode Two - Doubts

Episode Three - Rituals

Episode 4 - Sleepless Nights

Episode Five - The Collection

Happy 2008 and the 48 Hour NYE Dress

2007-12-31T13:54:00.000-08:00

Happy New Year Beautiful People!!! I hope you rang in the new year with a bang! I went to loft get together in Brooklyn with a few of my closest girlfriends (Honnie is back home in Detroit with his family). That is me on the right with my friend Ta-Leya.

Funny story about the dress...maybe not so funny, lol. I decided last minute to make my NYE dress. I wanted a loose translation of this BCBG silk satin shift dress but I only had 48 hours to get it completed. I was kicking myself the whole time because I knew I couldn't give the garment my full TLC with that limitation. In the end I was pleased with the outcome, but I promised to NEVER rush a project again. Many people have resolved to sew more quality garments in 2008 instead sewing a large quantity and I totally agree.

The pattern was originally dress view A from Simplicity 4045 minus the sleeves. The fabrics used were navy, charcoal and silver silk satin. I cut 2" of contrasting fabric for the straps and the edging around the dress. I added 2 inches to the center front to increase to give a appearance of a shift dress (I didn't cut the dress on the bias). Not quiet what I expected...but hey, it was dark in the party so it worked!

Lastly, I saw this post from the Sewing Divas about vintage needle books. I was delighted to see this post because I love to read stories of seamstresses for a time long ago. I've never heard of needle books until this post and I just couldn't wait to make one. Functional and cute, no? I think I'll make some more!

Neglected Views PT II

2007-12-29T20:41:00.000-08:00

Hi all! As much I as wanted to get a picture of my dress in the daylight I had to settle for the indoor light photo......nonetheless here is my dress!!!

I previously posted on the Neglected View phenomenon that affects a number of semi-popular pattern views in light of their accompanying views. I converted the the jumper dress view of Simplicity 3631 to after being inspired from a Rebecca Taylor dress. To recreate the look I had to convert the darts on the dress into pleats and lower the neck line. Below are the detail shots. I was fortunate enough to find beautiful hardware at Joyce Trimmings. By the way, I used a small dabs of glue from a glue gun to place the sewed on pieces before I sewed them on. Be for I did that I couldn't get them to stay put while I stitched.

I'm glad I did this project because it forced me move out comfort zone and think/sew out of the box. I think I'm going to wear it to brunch tomorrow :-)

Pirate Shirt Makeover

2007-12-25T20:09:00.000-08:00

I haven't looked into doing a makeover project since my vintage trench coat, which is surprising since I loved doing the makeover and I thought I would do it often more. One opportunity for a makeover came about when I bought a shirt I had no business wearing. But before I get into that....here I am in the shirt made over into a camisole with a ruffled front. By the way, I paired it with my tweed skirt and it looked great!

This is the shirt before I hacked it up. Long story short: I bought it online from Newport News for like $20. It looks FABULOUS on the model that had it on, but I just looked like a tiny pirate in it with my short torso. I am a HUGE advocate of people dressing to their proportions, so instead of offending, I made it some thing else of it. Plus, the fabric is a cream rayon and spandex blend knit and was too pretty to throw away.

I made a pattern for the camisole by tracing a one I already wear to pattern paper and adding the seam allowances. I went for circle method for creating the ruffles which is outlined in my readers digest guide, but I had to break out 9th grade math to get the circles the right width and length. I chose to use 5 circles all 5" long when expanded. The 2 outer circles were 3" wide and the inner circles were 2.5 inches. To spread them out I used 4 triangular spacers of the same fabric and interfaced it for support.

In case you were wondering why I didn't overcast the ruffles edges..let me introduce you to my lil friend... FRAY CHECK! I didn't want to mess with the integrity of the drape with stitching so i used this miracle in a bottle and applied it to every inch of the edges. It seals the fabric and prevents fraying.

I wanted to reuse the binding but after it was detached I knew it wouldn't give a clean finish so I used the sleeve to make new binding. It took several 14" section to make it all the way around including the straps. Since the back straps required 2 sections, I used the buttons to create a decorate the overlapping sections.

As Prince fan, I've always had an affinity towards purple and ruffles. I am soo loving how ruffles have made a comeback to the forefront of fashion. Check out this very popular dress by Black Halo. It was featured in the October issue of Lucky Magazine and indeed was my inspiration for the look. (All I need now is a professional photographer, lighting equipment, hair and makeup, and my pic will look that great, HA!)

Anywho, Merry Christmas again!

Merry Christmas Blogosphere!

2007-12-23T20:48:00.001-08:00

May your Christmas be filled with all joy, love, and warm fuzzies your heart can take. I hope there are plenty of powder blue boxes under the tree for the ladies and flat screens for the fellas. Although I am a huge proponent of gifts and giving, I always give thanks to the reason of the season. In the words of Eric Cartman: Thank you JESUS for being born.

And now I leave you with a clip of my #1 Christmas movie, Elf.

Tis the Season - YED!!!

2007-12-22T05:09:00.000-08:00

It's that time of the year on Wall St again!!!! Year-End-Deliverables..YAY!!!! (sarcasm) At this point of the year, everyone is trying to squish all the projects, reports, deadlines for 07 into the first two weeks of December because any later and it will be impossible. People you need to communicate with will start taking 1-3 week long vacations while you in the office trying find someone else to fill in for them. So that's the boat I'm in, I haven't even started my Christmas shopping. I just checked my Google Reader and I have 118 unread posts!!!!! OMG I feel like I'm neglecting all you awesome people. I will to read each one this weekend and post on the 2 projects I managed to complete. I'm just waiting for my paparazzi, my sis Donna, to come over and take some flicks. I just need one more nap 0:-)

Digital Fashion Designer

2007-12-16T22:18:00.000-08:00

Lil fact about me: I graduated NYU with a computer science degree, specializing in Computer Graphics research (nothing to do with my career, lol). To sum up what that means: you know your fancy photo editors that somehow fix your pictures a click of a button, or did you ever notice how each successive Shrek movie looks closer and closer to real life? I was the one of the many techies that researched and wrote the programs to make that stuff happen. My final project while working under the guidance of Kenneth Perlin was writing simplified mathematical equations to render seashells. See this bit of computer code made this pretty picture.

Ok, I hope haven’t totally bored you by now, I promise you I will get to the sewing part. I loved graphics programming because the same reason I love crafting – taking virtually nothing or simple and making something awesome from it. More specifically, taking something in 2D (letters/fabric) and turning it in to something in 3D (graphics/clothing). If I would have pursued graphics as a career I was going to work on developing pattern-making algorithms for crocheting and sewing. Fortunately Bernina beat me to it. They developed a pattern making software package. You put in your measurements, pick your garment, fit the garment on the virtual model, pick a fabric, print and sew! I’ve been tinkering with the free Demo product trying to push it to the limits. So far it’s so good, for what its worth. I’m going to pick the t-shirt (the demo is only a skirt and t-shirt) and give it a go. If real life fitting is not required after digital fitting, I might be impressed. Unfortunately it has to get the back of the project queue (which is about 6 deep right now). If anyone has tried this out and makes something fab from it please shoot me a note. I’m oh so curious about the possibilities of this product. Also, they are having a sewing software challenge. Check a screen shot of the software below.

I love when technology and crafts unite....It gives me warm fuzzies :0)

Business Week Opportunity

2007-12-12T04:13:00.000-08:00

Hey All,

If anyone is in interested in being featured in Business Week with Burda Style, check out this announcement from them. Ok, I'm off to work!

Toodles!

Analysis Paralysis - Coverting Darts to Pleats

2007-12-09T12:25:00.000-08:00

Have you ever seen the movie Meteor Man with Robert Townsend? In the movie, one of this super powers is the ability to read an entire book by simply touching it (I bet you already know where I'm going here). If only I could walk into the library at FIT or Parsons and learn everything I ever needed to know about garment design, fit, and construction by running down the isles like a 5 year old touching every book in sight..... *daydreaming*.......

Alas, this is not a dream that can come true and I remain patient as a learn these invaluable techniques the old fashioned way: friends, books and my own creativity. When I set out to recreate the Rebecca Taylor dress from the Simplicity 3631 Jumper, I knew I had a design and fit and construction challenge on my hands. I had to convert the bodice side dart to pleats that lined up with the pleats in the skirt and still complement my figure. This is was also my first project with a knit fabric so had to prepare.

I think I spent a little too much time analyzing and preparing for this project. As much as a wanted everything to come out perfectly the first time I had to realize a mistake isn't the worst thing in the world. In fact, mistakes are seldom forgotten or repeated and are the backbone of one's "experience". So stop researching and with the resources I gathered in hand I relied on what I already knew and started making the dress. I want to share the technique (by way of trail and error) I used to convert my darts to pleats in the bodice. I was so hyped once it came together!!!!

Darts to Pleats
What helped me figure this one out is what I knew to be true about darts: When used for fitting, darts gather fabric surrounding a curve. It will always point to the highest point of the curve, yet not quite reach it. Since I was eliminating the bust dart I knew the waist pleat must serve the same purpose to achieve the proper fit. The waist pleat is essentially a dart that is partially sewn and pressed down the center instead of to the side.

So to make the pleat I cut traced the pattern onto fresh pattern paper and cut the dart out. The next step is to match the edges of the dart together and tape them down. The pattern will have a pucker as it would have on the garment. I cut a straight line from the bottom parallel to center front and directly under my bust point. I used the distance from the bust point of the original dart to guide me on when to stop cutting the line. As this point, the goal is to cut of whatever paper was left that prevented the pattern from laying flat again. I achieved this by cutting another line from the bust point down the bottom again. I did shift over the placement of the pleat so that is lines up perfectly with the skirt pleat. This is what the pattern looked like in the end. See the original dart below.
This is the muslin in its early stages.

BUST Magazine Craftacular
I went to the Bust Magazine's Holiday Craftacular event yesterday. I wasn't too impressed but I think it was due to my expectations. I thought it would be full (or half full) of things for me to make or meet people who own crafting businesses in the city. The event was actually for the non-crafter who wanted to buy (often overpriced) stuff from crafty businesses. Below are 2 noteworthy booths:

-Diana Rupp's Make Workshop: The author of the awesome beginners sewing guide "Sew Everything Workshop" and owner of the Make Workshop in the Lower East Side was there. I frequented her awesome craft studio and I highly recommend it if you want to learn a new craft. I told her about the acclaim she's received in the blog community (I showed her Toya's review) and she was delighted and flattered.

-Cara Taylor Handbags: Cara is a clever crafty environmentalist. She crotchets the cutest bag out of used plastic shopping bags!

September BWOF Mag!!
Mimi and I have been coveting the Sept 07 issue of Burda World of Fashion and thanks to the miracle of EBay we now have our own issues. YAY!

Kashi Convert - Building by Must(sew)stach

2007-11-30T04:24:00.000-08:00

The Internet is the thread that binds us sewers together (major pun intended). Yet and still I wish I could spend some in-person time with you all to pick your brains and have sewing meets. Fortunately one of my favorite blogistas (feminine pronoun for blogger...I made that one up, lol), Carolyn, commutes to NYC for work and I stole a few moments of her precious time. She took me to Metro Textiles in the garment district were I met the owner, Kashi. What a lovely soul this man is AND he has good taste!! I didn't see a fabric I didn't love. After about an hour, I lit up the AMEX card and bought these awesome fabrics at a great price. I wobbled home on the train with these 2 big bags and a HUGE cheesy smile on my face.

Delicious, no?

Needless to say, Carolyn did impart some valuable knowledge. The main being how to approach fabric shopping in general. I have the tendency to think up a garment, look for a matching pattern, the think of the fabric I want, then go to the store and *attempt* to find a match which is often time leads to disappointment. This is not how designers nor Carolyn shops for fabric. She taught me how to fall in love with the fabric FIRST, and let it dictate how it will dress you. I then realised how many times I walked into a fabric store, saw something beautiful, and passed it on because it wasn't in my plans. I'm definitely a convert! Since I don't have your mailing address, Carolyn, this is for you:

Dear Carolyn,

You are Awesome. Thank you.

Sincerely,

Cindy

In other Cindy news:

Wednesday was my Honnie's birthday! I took the day off and spent it with him in Philly. He did have to go to class so I took the car and went down to Fabric Row on South 4th and picked up some notions. But not before I accidentally ended up on the Benjamin Franklin Bridge and going into New Jersey 0:) I'll be going back next Wednesday for our 3 year Anniversary. (YAY!!)

today *Sigh* I've been having digestion issues for the past 2 weeks which can only be attributed to my own I'll be home this weekend...sewing though I'm not feeling very well. I didn't even go to Sfactorimproper eating habits. (Note to Self: Add healthy diet to New Years Resolutions. End note.)

Houndsooth Jacket

2007-11-25T15:28:00.000-08:00

What a fun filled weekend! But first, I finished my jacket! I was so tempted to not line the jacket for the sake of completing the project a little faster but I'm glad I stuck with the plan. Thanks too Deena, who was my personal paparazzi, I have a picture of me in it. I hope to continue getting my picture taken for completed projects. It's much more fun :-) Now I'm focusing on the RT dress, updates to follow.

Otherwise, my Thanksgiving was awesome. I got a little chubby with all the good food (still have a ton of leftovers in the fridge). I spent alot of time with my Honnie, friends and family. I hope you all had a great Holiday ;-)

Gobble, Gobble

2007-11-22T08:48:00.000-08:00

Have a blessed and Happy Turkey Day with your loved ones. I'm thankful for love, family, health and all you awesome blogistas out there!

This is the only Thanksgiving Song I can remember from one of my favorite old school movies, Addams Family Values. Enjoy :-)

Neglected Views

2007-11-15T22:34:00.000-08:00

Supastars….every pattern has one. That one view everyone and their mama’s mama want to dig in and sew. One recent Supastar was view B of Simplicity 3631. Erica, Adrienne, and Lovely to name a few, rocked out their precious renditions. Who can forget view 117 from the September issue of BWOF? Cidell, Christina, Toya, and Erica had me upset that I wasn’t hip to BWOF until recently.

What about the neglected views? The A’s, B’s C’s we never find on PatternReview.com. The ones everyone seems to pass over. Usually plain and serving as a complement or accessory to the Supastar, busy home sewers would rather reserve their time for another fabulous Supastar. Meanwhile, the other views stay patiently waiting nicely folded on their original creases in the envelope. (Shed a tear)

I’m dedicating the post and a project to a neglected view. After all someone took the time to design it and it needs a lil love too. I’m working on view C (jumper dress) of Simplicity 3631. But I’m not just going to make it; I’m jazzing up this Cinderella and taking her to the ball!!

I sought inspiration from this Rebecca Taylor dress from the cover of the November Lucky Magazine. It’s simple yet bold at the same time. Here is what I bought: Cream double knit, cream China silk for the lining, and the beads from Joyce (some sewn and some iron-on). Everything came up to less than $60, compare that to the $400 this dress retails for.

I intend on making 3 design alterations aside from fitting. Dropping the neckline, widening the armscye, and mirroring the inverted pleat of the skirt into the bodice.

Lastly, this project prompted me to ask Christina about sewing knits. View her response post here. (Thanks again!)

All Lined Up

2007-11-12T17:26:00.000-08:00

The next project on my queue is my lavender houndsooth jacket. I wanted to take a minute a share a technique I used to match the lines in the fabric so that it lines up in the completed garment. The results so far have brought great joy!!

It's pretty simple. First I laid the fabric entirely flat without folding it. For the front panels I the cut the pattern out on one side, flipped it and on the same line cut the other side. Right beside the front pattern, I laid the back pattern. To maintain continuity across the back, I lined up the pattern by matching the notches of the front and back peices across the fabric. Since the back should have been cut on the fold, I cut around around top, left and bottom - flipped the pattern to the right - then cut the bottom right and top.

Here is what it looks like roughly sewn together:

Lined-up peices on the open fabric

Couture Skirt

2007-11-10T04:55:00.000-08:00

I have hot feet as my mother says. Off the heals of last weekend’s vacation, I up and go to Boston. I’m on the Acela express right now holding on for dear life - this thing is FAST!

Before I left I took some quick picture of my couture finish wool tweed skirt. I was wondering if should post this on patternreview.com; probably not considering I mutilated this pattern beyond recognition. But in case you are wondering I used the Sew U skirt pattern I fitted a while back since the design had no frills. I wanted free range to redraft the pattern and cut I waistband that I created myself. I reduced the A Line to loose pencil. Although the skirt protected by the lining, the tweed is very loose tweed and I didn’t want to put it under any undue pressure or stretching while wearing. I relied on Claire Schaeffer’s Couture Sewing techniques for the following construction and design elements:

Fitting a skirt
Attaching a lining
Cutting and shaping a waistband
Attaching a waistband
Fell stitching a facing to a waistband
Abutting a waistband closure
Hand stitching…lots of it

I had several hiccups in this project:

My hook and eyes didn’t match and had no time to pick up new ones.
China Silk is a tricky fabric and the sole reason why I own a rotary cutter. Also, it doesn’t take steam very well. I turned the steam off and just used the heat to press. Also, since the silk is very slippery, it has two layers of interfacing on the waistband facing.
I gained a lil weight so it doesn’t sit as low as it did when I first started.
I tried cutting a shaped waistband, hated it and went for the straight band.
I have yet to see daylight in my apartment so I have to take yellow-toned flicks. I wished I lived with someone who could take pictures of me in my stuff lol.

All in all I love this skirt. It feels and looks soo good on. My shoddy photography isn't it doing justice. I promise will getting its fair share of wearing this winter. Then i will recruit my co-workers to take pictures of me, lol.

Guess Who’s B-iz-ack

2007-11-09T04:16:00.000-08:00

I’m back from my trip to New Orleans. It was a grueling forty hours in the rental car but my Honnie and I made it. The visiting the city is bittersweet. Seeing the remnants of an entire city affected by the flood was heart wrenching. However the people there have such resilient and amazing spirits that you couldn’t help but feel uplifted. I can’t wait to go back!

We went the to Xavier University during Homecoming for the Neophyte Step show. Honnie had a great time catching up with his frat brothers and I was having a ball meeting my southern sorority sisters. Here are a few pictures from the show.

Alpha Step

AKAs Step

That's my Honnie on the right.

Ok so, I avoided the obvious. Did I or didn’t I finish crocheting that vest??? To put it nicely…no! I tried and tried to crochet in the car and just kept falling asleep or getting carsick. So I saved the ole hook and yarn for my work commute. I’ll post more on that project in a bit.

Paying It Forward

2007-11-01T21:44:00.000-07:00

Greetings from the passenger seat of a rental car. My honnie and I have embarked on a 20 hour road trip down to New Orleans to visit his Alma Mata. I have my yarn and crochet hook handy so I'll have a neat vest by the end of this trip.

In other news: Thanks to Google Reader I was swift enough to join in Mimi Jackson's Pay it Forward exchange! Here are the rules.

“I will send a handmade gift to the first 3 people who leave a comment on my blog requesting to join this PIF exchange. I don’t know what that gift will be yet and you may not receive it tomorrow or next week, but you will receive it within 365 days, that is my promise! The only thing you have to do in return is pay it forward by making the same promise on your blog.”

So first three special people to leave comment on this post will receive a gift from me...I have no clue what it will be but I promise to make it special :-)

Would you buy it?

2007-10-29T19:50:00.000-07:00

I stumbled on this Marc Jacobs lining and got excited for a split second. Why? I'm not quite sure. I think it was for the reason I get excited when I see a Marc Jacobs anything, but this one was different. So I says to myself I says.. 'Self, would you buy this fabric and line a jacket that YOU made?'. Then I said 'Self, no I wouldn't'.

I'm totally for making designer inspired goods but I think this is where I draw the line before I teeter into knock-offsville. In the end, I think the ability to recreate designer inspired goods into something figure flattering on me is something to be proud of. And in the back of my mind I say 'man I could have designed that...he/she just beat me too it!'. With that said, I think the only name you'll ever see on a inside of a jacket I made is Cindy Urbaez Dishmey.

Picasso Moment

2007-10-25T18:06:00.000-07:00

I had a Picasso moment when I was decorating my living room. I wanted to maintain a modern feel to room with the clean lines, opaque shades, and bold colors. I used a technique I saw on the TLC channel were you paint an abstract painting on 3 canvases then separate them when you mount them.

You too can be a cubist artist. All you need is 3 colors, 3 canvases and some masking tape. Block off areas by laying the tape in horizontal, vertical and diagonal lines. Take your 3 colors and choose where you want to place them. The key to make it look balanced is to avoid coloring 2 adjacent blocks the same color. If you feel like you can't help it, then just leave it blank! Let it dry and remove the tape and Viola!!! You are now a cubist!

The only thing I would have done different is I would have gotten bigger canvases from Pearl.

Movie Muse PT II

2007-10-24T03:51:00.000-07:00

Lo and behold Vogue Patterns has a the pattern I need to copy....er ah.....I'm meaning create inspired looks from Why did I get married?. What is even better, we are right in the middle of the Vogue 2 day sale. Most patterns are $6.99, including designer patterns!!! Thanks for tip Adrienne.

So here are my Movie Muse findings (drum roll, please):

The Wrap Dress
The one with the collar

Fan Jacket.
Using the technique from this post, I can add to the pattern for the flared effect.

Ruffled Blouse
Using the view of the white blouse, I'll make it as is then add the ruffle volume depending on the fabric weight.

Movie Muse

2007-10-21T20:47:00.000-07:00

Yes, I was one of the very lucky people this weekend to see Why Did I Get Married? Such an awesome movie...I laughed, I cried, and loved every minute of it. Most importantly this was a "Run Home and GO Make That Outfit" movie. There were three garments that currently have me scouring the internet to find similar patterns.

Janet Jackson's Wrap Dress
What I love the most is the fabric color and cut of dress, very DVF. I'm sure I'll find a match in no time.

Tasha Smith's Suite Jacket
I couldn't find a front shot of the jacket (on the right) but it basically resembles this dress I saw on the old Sewing Divas blog. I thought it was a great concept but I wasn't into the gown. Now I see how to make it work appropriate. Check out the sleeves too.

Tasha Smith's Ruffled Shirt
I couldn't find a production photo of the actual blouse, but it looked something like this. The difference is the ruffles were fuller and continued into the collar. The fabric was a heavy woven wool with a black and white pattern.

Day In The Life of a Crafter - Friday October 18

2007-10-20T05:01:00.000-07:00

My favorite Niche Blog-istas (my way of saying Specialty Blogging Woman) are some of the most interesting and talented women the real world has to offer. Everyday I check up on a few and they never cease to amaze me with their knitting, sewing , fashion savvy, or shopping prowess. I would love to know what a day in their shoes is like and see how they manage to find the time to pursue their passions. I did mine yesterday, chronicling all of the day's milestones in photo. Hopefully, you will do one too and let me know! :-)

Rise and Shine Cinderelly
This is the hardest part of my day. Getting up.
I sleep on the satin pillow cases I sewed and piped with brown satin. You can't see the in pic, but the under side has a lapped entrance for the jumbo pillows.

Getting Dressed
It takes me over a hour to get dressed. But truth be told,
I spend alot of time sleeping in between steps.

Great, I'm Late!
I always wait until the last minute to go and catch my train as seen by the blurry picture taken by my shaky hand while running.

Precious Craft Time
My 35 minute commute from Harlem to the Financial District is very precious to me. Since I'm on the first stop of the 3 train, I aways get a corner seat on the train. I am totally oblivious to the mayhem of the morning rush in my spot which make is prime time for doing some crafting or preparation. Today I'm re-reading the section on making a faced-waistband using couture techniques for my tweed skirt in progress. This is also the time I do the majority of my crocheting.

Here's My Stop
It's funny that today, the day I decide to chronicle my daily journey I fall asleep on the train and miss my stop! Luckily the uptown train came in 30 seconds and I was only set back 3 minutes. Here's my stop. They never changed the sign after the World Trade Center (WTC) came down. Right at the end of this hallway was the entrance to the bottom of one of the Twin Towers.

Ground Zero
Everyday I walk along the north side of the former site of the WTC. I say a prayer every morning for the families who lost their loved ones on 9/11. And makes me all the more gratefully that I have the opportunity to even sit here and write this blog and come home to craft.

World Financial Center
There's my building with the round top. 1 of the four buildings
in the WFC, all of which are still standing.

Over the Bridge
I'm currently on the Vesey Street Bridge. The walk way over the
West Side Highway that brings hundreds of pedestrians in fancy suites
Gucci bags and Prada shoes to work. Me...the only Wall St wardrobe
staple I have on me is a Longchamp signature tote. Good Morning Team
I picked up my croissant and smoothie and I'm at my desk 8:30am. I greet my team and get on calls. I am on this phone, trying to make things happen till the day is done.

Welcome to Metro-Post-It-lis
Just when you thought Cindy couldn't possibly craft at work! I recycle my Post-It notes into a mini skyscraper city on my desk. Every so often I'll think up a new shape to form and throw out another. Can't have too much on there, people will start to think I'm weird.

Meetings...Emails..Calls...Lunch...Emails...Calls...
I'll spare you the details of the rest of my work day.

It's Quitin' Time
It's past 5:30pm and weekend has officially started and I'm off!!

Pause, Flick
You know you do it too. Every time you catch your reflection in
a window, you take a long glance and admire yourself in all your splendor.
It's perfectly fine...all women should.

On the A Train
I'm not going home just yet. I catch the A-Train to Chelsea
for some Friday night fun.

I-S-Do-U-S?
I am proud and empowered Lady of S. What is S?
Why don't you go see?

Girl Fridays
Today was a great fun at SFactor. Sheila Kelly, S Factor's trailblazing founder, came to the studio to watch us S! She's standing next to me. In center are my girls. At the end, is the incomparable Ro Cepeda. If you are ever in NYC and want to S, look her up.

Din Din
Girl Friday's ends in dinner at a local restaurant. The only
thing better than good food is good company.

Back Home!

After shoving down my fish and chips platter. I make my way home to the sounds of my I-Pod. I get home drop my bag, kick off my shoes get in my jammies and get-to-sewing!! Its passed midnight, but I'll get this invisible zipper fully basted and sewn tonight....Yawwn.

Night-Night
It's 1:30am. Just finished reading blogs and IMing some friends online.
The zipper is in and I'm out!

Fabric Run One - Done

2007-10-14T08:52:00.000-07:00

Phase one of my fall/winter fabric shopping is complete! I sunk out of my office a little early on the Thursday (4:55 *gasp*) and hopped the A train 34th St. I purchased the fabric and lining for a jacket and skirt. I'm really excited about that these two very unique and distinct fabrics I choose because they have the same lavender accents. Although I would never wear the jacket and skirt together, I can wear the same accessories, shoes, and shirt when wearing either one! Fortunately, they had the perfect lining that I will use for both pieces. Another plus is the accent color is lavender and I love all shades of purple.

I went to Mood Fabrics (made famous by Project Runway) because they never fail to provide the best quality of unusual designer fabrics. I don't know how they do it, but they even manage to get fabrics straight from the design houses of Chanel, Emilo Pucci, Cavalli, YSL, Marc Jacobs and more. Talk about sewing runway looks!

The lavender Houndsooth is for the Jacket and the tweed is for the skirt.

Here is a close-up.

So many plans for the Fall....So little time.

2007-10-07T00:42:00.000-07:00

Work has been kinda hectic - busy every second of the work day. Getting out at about 6pm doesn't give me anytime to run up to the garment district from the financial district. This weekend I dedicated to friends and my honnie in Philadelphia so fabric and notion shopping will have to wait *sigh*. In the meantime I'll will be rereading my Sew Stylish magazine and Couture Sewing Techniques and planning the rest of the my Fall/Winter wardrobe. It's still warm in NYC so can survive on my current wardrobe a little while longer. I hope to get my sketches up soon, but I'll give you a preview of my thoughts.

1. Crochet lace vest - This is an accent piece. I envision it over a button-up shirt topped with a jacket.

2. Cropped jacket galore - I plan on making at least 3 versions of the Simplicity 4045 jacket in a Tweed, Jacquard, and Wool boucle (attempting a Chanel couture finish here).

Just talking about it gets me feverishly excited. I might have to call in and take a personal day.

Simplicity 4045 - Jacket (Draft)

2007-09-30T10:27:00.000-07:00

Whiiippeeeee I finalized the toile for my collarless jacket. I ripped out 5 versions of this jacket from recent Lucky issues and from the Bloomingdale's catalog and posted it on my wall for inspiration. Hopefully I can get different styles completed before winter hits.

My overall opinion on this pattern is that it is well drafted and the instructions where easy to follow. I picked the size of my pattern based on the final measurement (on the pattern pieces) instead of the measurements on the envelope. I'm a 34 bust, with corresponded to a 12, but the final measurement on the size 12 is 38.5 inches. I went for the size 8 which measure 35.5 inches on the final piece.

It looks much better on me than the dressform, but my hair is a hot mess today. I'll model for the final pieces.

Below are the magazine cut-outs on my wall.

Vintage Trench Makeover

2007-09-22T08:32:00.000-07:00

Suede Magazine is arguably the best new magazine published for savvy ethnic woman in the past 5 years. However, Time Inc shelved it only after a few issues (I think the lack of marketing on Time's behalf is to blame). The March 2005 issue had a great DIY project to update a vintage trench that I jumped on immediately. I bought the vintage trench on eBay for $30 and bought all the trimmings in the garments district.
* I sewed on leather buttons and removed the original plastic ones.
* Covered the collar and belt with the same striped ribbon in the magazine.
* Replaced the tan lining with hot pink satin and navy blue bias tape.

My DIY Bedroom

2007-09-22T07:38:00.000-07:00

When I moved in my cozy (euphemism for small, lol) Manhattan apartment I really wanted it to feel like home and not a closet. For my bedroom I made a "thinking corner" that is directly across from my bed to give the illusion that my room was more that just a place I lay my head. Here is what I made:

* Upholstered a $5 dinner table chair I got off craigslist.
* Made a matching skirt for the night stand.
* Made a drape for my book stand that covers the mess of books, jewelry and lotions behind it.
* Re-covered my lamp with imported hand-made paper I bought at Nepa Bhon in the Village. I has bits of flowers and twigs that are visible when you turn the lamp on.
* Painted cardboard frames I bought from Pearl with the color I used to paint the opposite wall.

Basic Skirt

2007-09-22T07:13:00.001-07:00

I made this muslin skirt from the skirt pattern in Wendy Mullin's book. The front darts were identical to the back darts which doesn't work if your tummy is flat and your rear isn't. The back of the pattern was perfect but I altered the front to lay flatter based on the technique in Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing. All I need to do is find a nice fabric to make a the skirt with. Any suggestions??

Skirt Pattern: Sew U

Alteration Guide: Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing (1978 Edition)

Stone Necklace

2007-09-19T20:54:00.000-07:00

I made this about 5 years ago when I first started making jewelry. I'm glad it turned out to be a fun and timeless piece.

Turquoise Earrings

2007-09-19T20:41:00.000-07:00

I made these turquoise earrings after being inspired by a Sarah Jessica Parker ensemble. It 's amazaing how well they wear on voilet clothing. I wish the pretty gold detail would photograph better.

Bridal Shower

2007-09-17T21:12:00.000-07:00

I made a bridal shower gift for my home girl. I had a hard time using the embroidery function on my sewing on a knit fabric (lesson learned: Always use stabilizer). But I loved how my nail head design came out, and it was my first try. I drew the freehand"T" on Iron Transfer paper, carefully lined up the nail heads on the outline with a tweezer and ironed it on to the tank.

Metallic Nail Heads and Transfer Paper: Joyce Trimming

Crochet Bikini

2007-09-17T20:47:00.000-07:00

I spent all of my Spring making this bikini top and bottom for my South Beach vacation with my Sorority Sisters but I forgot the dang thing in my craft bin. I haven't gone to the beach since and it's Fall now, so lets hope I still fit it next year. This is what it looked liked before I crocheted the trim on. No pics of the final product on me....I'm a laaa-dy ;-)

Pattern Source:
Stitch 'N Bitch Crochet: The Happy Hooker

Wall Street By Day :: Hardcore Crafter By Night

Color Blocked Dress

Magazine to Closet in 15 seconds flat

I shall call her...Semi Me!

Haute Couture Techniques: The Review

Wedding Perfect

Vegas Reversa-Makeover!

Yes, it's HER!!!!!

I just lost respect for these designers...

ARTICLE: Oscar de la Renta Slams Michelle Obama's Buckingham Outfit As Major Designers Feel Ignored

What Happens In Vegas.......

QUIZ: What's in the Ruffle??

Foot Fetish - My Sewing Foot Directory

Guess who I am going to go see....

*Blows kisses* *Waves*

Tata's Bata PT 2

Overjoyed

Say hello to my little friend.

Remembering a Legend...because someone has to do it.

Asleep at the wheel.

I spy with my little eye...

Novelties - Half Gloves

RESURRECTED

Still gone fishin'...

QUIZ!!!

Urban Jungle...The Reveal

I'm gonna SET OFF in 5..4....3...

The words SA-FA-RI !!!!

Pretty Pleated and Out the Closet

Sunday Dress

I'm it!

Are you high?

Excellent Blog Award!!!

Trina Turk Knock-Off!! (Finally) *Updated*

Cool New STUFF!!!

Good News. Bad News.

RTW Contest Submission

In case you haven't noticed......

Bandwidth. Ambivalence. Pace.

Tata's Bata

Sew Chic

Next Project - AKA Commemorative Coat!!

Get it while its HOT!!!

Signé Chanel - A Must See!

Happy 2008 and the 48 Hour NYE Dress

Neglected Views PT II

Pirate Shirt Makeover

Merry Christmas Blogosphere!

Tis the Season - YED!!!

Digital Fashion Designer

Business Week Opportunity

Analysis Paralysis - Coverting Darts to Pleats

Kashi Convert - Building by Must(sew)stach

Houndsooth Jacket

Gobble, Gobble

Neglected Views

All Lined Up

Couture Skirt

Guess Who’s B-iz-ack

Paying It Forward

Would you buy it?

Picasso Moment

Movie Muse PT II

Movie Muse

Day In The Life of a Crafter - Friday October 18

Fabric Run One - Done

So many plans for the Fall....So little time.

Simplicity 4045 - Jacket (Draft)

Vintage Trench Makeover

My DIY Bedroom

Basic Skirt

Stone Necklace

Turquoise Earrings

Bridal Shower

Crochet Bikini

Blows kisses Waves

Trina Turk Knock-Off!! (Finally) Updated